Auto Brooklyn Sunrise, Sunset Sherbet and Northern Lights

[GMO]

I'll be honest. this isnt something i know. 100% peat is kinda a hydroponic medium on its own but in soil works to help water retention

With that in mind, im not sure a normal soil watering routine is the correct one. it looks like you have 2 maybe 3 things going on so im going to have to go through the same old questions sorry

Hows temps high/low, RH% etc etc
extra ones
Whats the pot level temp
What temp is your watering
Do you have a fan blowing at under the canopy
Do you have any calmag at hand (not epsom salts we are looking for the calcium potentially)

[Tictok]

I'll be honest. this isnt something i know. 100% peat is kinda a hydroponic medium on its own but in soil works to help water retention

With that in mind, im not sure a normal soil watering routine is the correct one. it looks like you have 2 maybe 3 things going on so im going to have to go through the same old questions sorry

Hows temps high/low, RH% etc etc
extra ones
Whats the pot level temp
What temp is your watering
Do you have a fan blowing at under the canopy
Do you have any calmag at hand (not epsom salts we are looking for the calcium potentially)

Many thanks GMO, appreciate your time on it mate. Here's what I've got;

>Hows temps high/low, RH% etc etc
Highs: 26 lows: 22
RH: between 48 and 58

extra ones
>Whats the pot level temp :
as above, my hygrometer rests on the pot edges.

>What temp is your watering:
should be around 22c

> Do you have a fan blowing at under the canopy
Nope, fan is just above canopy level, I did think is it wind burn?

>Do you have any calmag at hand
I don't but can pick some up tomorrow.

Thanks again mate.

[GMO]

this is a right treasure hunt dude

i dont suppose you have PH or EC meters?

as it stands this is where im at brother

Peat moss, the major component in most potting soils, is acidic with a pH from 3.5 to 4.5
Limestone is added to neutralize the acidity of peat to raise the pH from 5.5 to 6.2. Limestone is a rock and needs time to break down from the moisture in the growing media. The pH is adjusted with calcium and dolomitic lime, minerals requiring about three weeks to fully react. Dolomitic lime will need more time than calcium lime to react. Depending on the moisture content of the substrate, the reaction time of the lime can change. The drier the growing media in storage, the longer this will take. To get the true starting pH of fresh, unused growing media, take a sample of unused mix, saturate it with deionized water to make a paste and let it sit inside a plastic bag. Take pH readings at day one, day three and day seven to verify the pH rise to the normal range.

and then combine that with Calcium range laying in the 6.2 + range (possibly not the data shows mixed evidence atm about actual PH range but thats splitting hairs)

so i think you got a PH issue thats setting in now tbh buddy and maybe increasing the amount of regular feedings using a constant feed level like in hydroponics rather than a feed, water, feed cycle like you would in soil will be the best approach. BUT its a big step so i do kinda hope someone else weighs in

[Tictok]

this is a right treasure hunt dude

i dont suppose you have PH or EC meters?

as it stands this is where im at brother

Peat moss, the major component in most potting soils, is acidic with a pH from 3.5 to 4.5
Limestone is added to neutralize the acidity of peat to raise the pH from 5.5 to 6.2. Limestone is a rock and needs time to break down from the moisture in the growing media. The pH is adjusted with calcium and dolomitic lime, minerals requiring about three weeks to fully react. Dolomitic lime will need more time than calcium lime to react. Depending on the moisture content of the substrate, the reaction time of the lime can change. The drier the growing media in storage, the longer this will take. To get the true starting pH of fresh, unused growing media, take a sample of unused mix, saturate it with deionized water to make a paste and let it sit inside a plastic bag. Take pH readings at day one, day three and day seven to verify the pH rise to the normal range.

and then combine that with Calcium range laying in the 6.2 + range (possibly not the data shows mixed evidence atm about actual PH range but thats splitting hairs)

so i think you got a PH issue thats setting in now tbh buddy and maybe increasing the amount of regular feedings using a constant feed level like in hydroponics rather than a feed, water, feed cycle like you would in soil will be the best approach. BUT its a big step so i do kinda hope someone else weighs in

Thanks mate, I didn't think it was going to get that complex, but I'm up for it. Crazy to think the brooklyn sunrise have loved the medium, but I'm praying for the sunset sherb, seems ok so far.

If a PH problem is setting in, is it game over? I'm at least three weeks from chop.

[GMO]

The Big question really is what PH is your run off coming out at imo

if you can get a PH meter and check that its gonna really help narrow the search

[Tictok]

The Big question really is what PH is your run off coming out at imo

if you can get a PH meter and check that its gonna really help narrow the search

Thanks GMO, I'm on it.

I get the feeling this problem is pushing me towards coco......

[GMO]

The Big question really is what PH is your run off coming out at imo

if you can get a PH meter and check that its gonna really help narrow the search

Thanks GMO, I'm on it.

I get the feeling this problem is pushing me towards coco......

I think by the time we work out exactly what's going on you'll have most of the gear

translated from the bongo of the canna jungle

[Tictok]

The Big question really is what PH is your run off coming out at imo

if you can get a PH meter and check that its gonna really help narrow the search

Thanks GMO, I'm on it.

I get the feeling this problem is pushing me towards coco......

I think by the time we work out exactly what's going on you'll have most of the gear

translated from the bongo of the canna jungle

Then it will be a watering system, then it will be a bigger tent, I know, I know....

[Tictok]

Hey all

First the good news, it's autumn in the autos tent with the auto brooklyn sunrise nearly ready at 12.5weeks.

There's a few ambers on the big buds and it seems they are working their way down, the lower buds are just milky still. I'm guessing at one more week...





Super happy with that lot.

Now the bad news.
The problem with the NL and Sunset Sherb is continuing. I did some research and with the soil I'm using and organic nutes, I should have added Epsom salts to bring the mag up, so it's definitely developed into calmag problem.

Picked up some plant magic magnecal from the shop and they had a 2ltr water each with 1ml/ltre magnecal, then let the pots get light and gave them all a second dose of the same. If anything the problem has continued to get worse!









I defoliated the worst leaves from the worst NL, successfully snipping off the top of one of the buds in the process (I'm such a noob).

The NL are in theory 1.5 weeks from getting to 8 week flower, so should I just give them water from now and nothing else? Or a dose of Epsom salts?

The sunset is in theory 2.5 weeks from getting to 9 weeks. I have the sane questions, just water, Epsom salts, continue with the magnecal? I don't know if the bud will be vapeable if they make it to the end.

No idea what to do, any advice would be appreciated.

Oh, and I tested the runoff.......... All at 6.5.

[kbag]

It would have got worse looks like K def to me adding more Cal prob locked it out more> Calcium and potassium if you over do it have adverse affects on each other. potassium it can cause a calcium deficiency and to much cal can cause potassium def.
Might be a little late to do much about it now i would just plain water for a couple of feeds then back to the normal base nutes to finish the grow off. No more cal/mag in the mix plus ph run off in soil means nothing. testing the ph before using water so you have a basemark is a good idea.