Lit Farms Pheno Hut

[Jayme Ream]

so sweet thanks for sharing!

[ncrypta.core]

@Keeno thanks man in progress of upgrading the irrigation as waiting on a few things like a flexitank pro res to replace that small one and nut lock elbows.

Thinking finally installing my aquaking pump but a its high pressure need nut locks Saturday going be a fun day as doing slabs that day

[ncrypta.core]

Day 2 of flower.

Seem I’ve noticed abit of a difference they seem bigger bd1 showing tri-combs so she might be a frost one.

I was feeding them at 3.0ec through veg but now they in flower for first 3 week it’s set too 3.7 but if they show any sign of stress will lower it and there’s a few that still look hungry.

Ppfd: 1100
Dli: 47
Temp: 29c
RH: 59
VPD: 1.13kPa

[Keeno]

I'm following with interest. This is the highest I've seen plants fed at, especially for stage of growth. Mon the experiments.

[ncrypta.core]

Will be doing a daily update while at this range so I can document what’s happening so others can see. By no mean would I recommend going 3.5+ unless the climate is spot on. Been running them quite intense so far, 600ppfd veg the mothers where set to 2.1Ec they really hungry and when cuts were a rooted was feeding 3ec, which brought on no Ill affect.

Now they in stretch need to up their feed but will only run 3.7 till week 3 when dailing it back alittle as will drop from 1100 to 900 so be at 3.3 from week 4.

The theory behind it and credit goes to josh neulinger, he works with Ramsey nubani who one founders of aroya I believe

Raising EC under higher PPFD goes against everything we learn under HPS/sunlight, but it is the correct fix to this symptom in the plants as long as your climate conditions are correct. LED's do not have the high IR fraction (radiated heat) that warms the plants up like HPS/sunlight. That's why we can't go over 1100 umol with HPS without burning them, but they can handle 2000 umol just fine outdoors. HPS comes with more IR per unit of PAR than sunlight does. LED's have zero IR, and so transpiration does not go up as linearly with PPFD like it does under those other light sources, however the capacity to grow more plant matter (the metabolic rate) DOES increase like normal as PPFD goes up, and so the plants need more of those nutrient building blocks in order to actually grow the way they want to under that intensity. In simple terms, it just means we have to squeeze more nutrient ions into a smaller volume of water, because the plants are growing just as fast as they would under the same PPFD of HPS, but are transpiring much less water volume. Recommended CropTech Veg mix EC for rockwool and coco under LED is no less than 3.0, and 3.5 most often under anything at or above 600 umol with a good climate. For flower we recommend 3.5-4.0 EC under LED that's anywhere over 800 umol, and the higher the PPFD goes, the higher EC may need to be.
All at a 5.6 pH for rockwool or coco as well, for both veg and flower. Good rule of thumb is, if your climate is on point but you see these kinds of purple stems/ discolored droopy leaves, increase EC slowly until they turn green

Someone reply saying this

I've found this happening a lot in my early LED days and noticed it was directly related to root mass size. I pumped up EC and it fixed the problem on @millspaysthebills to around 3.2-3.4 .
However as the plant grew and root mass increased it actually became an issue. I started to lower the EC back down to
2.8-3.0 and sometimes lower. As far as transpiration (LED) I've always pumped up the room temps to 84-86 (leaf temp
78-81) and dropped humidity to the happy point of feeding often without massive EC spike trend and it really made a huge difference in transport keeping up with high ppfd

Josh responded with

absolutely, that's part of it and the overall balance we have to maintain when driving at high speeds.
What size/type media? I would actually expect that with super pithy coco, or too much of any kind of coco/peat, or even too much or too little rockwool, or it could just be something I haven't learned yet w I keep feed EC the same basically until the end, but now I kinda want to play around with it....
The media type/CEC, FC WC%, and
total media volume do make a difference in the need to adjust feed
EC vs keeping EC the same start to finish and just getting a little more runoff when I want to reduce media ECpw (that's what I normally do).
Plants seem to benefit from stability in conditions in a lot of other areas, and from frequent replenishment of the solution immediately touching the root hairs (to a point). Your ECw at FC and how it moves around throughout the day all do a lot to signal the plant basically through simulated drought
stress (osmotic potential, 1.0 EC = ~
-38 kPa), and too much or too little substrate for that high EC can have a bad effect on it's accumulation, or lack thereof. Roots also go searching for nutrients like they will for water, you can see in one of my pictures how large the root mass is sticking out of the cube when we were underfeeding.
After we raised it, the root mass decreased, but the plants got a lot healthier. Same thing happens with too much media and a low feed EC early on when root mass is small, relatively no dryback means a lot less fertigation, and not enough replacement. Another example would be if you have a relatively large root mass in a small substrate, then as the plant drinks more and more water during late stretch stage growth especially, they may dry down a media that's too small so far that the salt levels make water uptake almost impossible, which causes what a lot of people call "nutrient burn", and causes calcium in the media to precipitate out as calcium phosphate/sulfate, leading to more imbalance and deficiencies toxicities. Complicated, but sizing media right also has to take everything else into account.

I’m running Athena pro line in Rockwool and Rockwool now my favourite medium to use no mess

If find more info on the subject will share

[2-Scoops]

I'm using a snazzy little tool that maybe right up your street cus of what your doing. it will work fine stuck in rockwool too. The Xiaomi or VegTrug flower plant bluetooth monitor. Basically it measures ec inside medium, temps, moisture and light at ground level. They run on flower care app and cost about £20. I've been working with one myself, does trick letting me know what shits going down in my medium.



App picci

[ncrypta.core]

I had one of them ages ago when first started crop steering but never work for me

Day 3 of flower
Fed EC: 3.70

[ncrypta.core]

Run off : 3.33EC

This was taken 45mins before lights the stem on these 2 for only day 4 of flower

To the Video app.php/vblog/ncrypta.core/65/1024

[ncrypta.core]

While I wait on light on to see how the plants are handling the feed thought I redo my core bottle and makes it like a custom feed etc

1: added 500ml water to 1l jug the ec comes to 0.01

2: added 240g and let it mix

3: after about an hour add another 500ml and hey presto have 1L Athena core concentrate liquid feed, which makes life easier

To the Video app.php/vblog/ncrypta.core/65/1025

Will be back once lights online with picture update

[Keeno]

Loving the vids Ncrypta, gives a much better picture of what you are doing.